Wednesday, October 21, 2020

THOUGHTS AT AN AIRPORT







 

 Thoughts at an Airport


I stood half naked, my feet in the paddy fields
Looking yonder beyond the grey dense clouds
My life was before me, my life was sealed
Before the creator of the universe
The Mad Molecule whose disciple I was to become
The countless trains and planes that I had travelled in, were ever present
And the people staring out of those windows, that I smiled at
Wishing for the same things, hoping that their lives would end in a haze of a forgotten dream
 
Someday I would transmogrify like a spotted butterfly into a shining knight
On a white light flecked steed with its' long sweeping tail
A scabbard at my side with a long un-drawn sword...
There would be tables decked with evil things to eat
and imbibe...
Lit candles, Pottery and Silver to eat from
and clear crystal glasses to drink from
How long will the master of the universe look into your eyes and say
That you have been a narcissistic beast of this earth...
There are friends who have looked into my conscientiousness  
Beautifully crafted 'menschen' who without, my life would have been an empty tin
The sons of the father who today can stand on two legs and fight for a pint of beer
Think their way out of a vortex and rise through the froth, to the top
The Mad Molecule will always have the last say and seal that top...Claustrophobic or not...
I head for the mountains and into the highest and bluest peaks
The vistas below extract all the senses that are contained within...
 
The love of my life slowly rises up from the ashes
And struggles to become that person once again...
The trampled path leads to calmer fields...
with yellow flowers and Gods of spring waters...gurgling through hollow rocks

💜
 
Oh Mad Molecule
 
You are the only one who has the power to uplift and place your hand
upon her head...
 
May you stay forever young (sic)  


Michael - February 2020
Dedicated to Linda, the prophet of endurance and pain
 

Friday, May 8, 2020

South East Asian Diaries - part I



South East Asia Diaries - Part I



⧪⧪⧪

 

  Unlocking the diary
 
 A new Dawn - Angkor Wat, Cambodia
 

One peaceful afternoon - Koh Phangan

Colossus of the East
                                              
 
 
Bouquet of human kindness - Mumbai, India 
 

 
Old world monkey - Gray Langur 
 
 
The Washer-women of Udaipur 
   
 
Udaiporian facets of gaiety 
 
 
Cap on the green 
 
 
 
The Graceful Taj Mahal 
 
 
 Wish you were here
 
 
 
Stair-way to Karma 
 
 
Mystique in the night
 
 
Perfectly cut 
 
 
 A view from Aldos - Hanoi 
 
 
 The wedding - Hanoi
  
 
Sapa woman with head-dress - Northern Vietnam 
 
 
 
I have made it outside - Bangkok
 
 
The King's palatial gardens - Thailand
 
 
Discovering the new World - Pai - Thailand
 
 
Peaceful creep show - Sukhothai - Thailand
 
 
Bibi  - ka  Maqbara - Aurangabad
 
 
 
 
 Bangalorian ladies swaying in motion - Bangalore - India

 
 
Vembanad Lake - Kerala - South India 
 
 
 Before I meet my maker, the mad molecule
I have to skim the surface of the South East
in search of inner peace
in search of the perfect smile
as wide as a river
 
 
 

Tuesday, April 14, 2020

VIETNAM JOURNALS 


Smiles and Beauty 
 
Part I
 
 
 

Hanoi
         Hoi An
         Hue
         Ha Long Bay
         Cat Ba Island
         Ninh Binh        
          

Vietnam is one of the most interesting places that I ever been to. A country filled with diverse people…young people who came from a hugely troubled history who have endured 1,000 years of Chinese rule.

However Vietnam has maintained and retained its strong individualistic characteristics mixed in with the regimented culture that has pervaded throughout time... I loved the easy going and friendly folk in the smaller towns, and business-like approach in the cities.
I have divided this Journal into 6 parts, as listed above…Each part will be interspersed with pictures.
 
ஃஃஃ
 
 HANOI ...

 I arrived in Hanoi on 13 January 2020…

As you are aware I  am 5 hours older than you are mathematically//...I am 5 mathematical hours older than all of you back home.

The customs and immigration of the airport had much to do to make sure that all travellers had their visas stamped together with the required fees. The Hall was filled to capacity…some tourists were wearing masks, but these were primarily for the pollution that Hanoi experiences. It is quite ironic that the majority of Vietnamese were wearing masks for many years and a few weeks later the monster virus enveloped much of the planet.
I finally got my visa after standing in a queue for almost one hour…Another queue awaited me to get outside the airport.

Unfortunately the taxi driver who took me to the hotel could speak no English, but we got along fine…I managed to get him to tell me about his two children and his beautiful wife…this was done with lots of hand signals and  pidgin English.
The trip to ‘The Golden Sun Hotel’ took one hour from the airport using shortcuts and many backyard scenes and businesses still operating.

     Hanoi streets
The staff at the ‘Golden Sun Hotel’ were amazing…They spoke very good English and knew Hanoi really well.

Daisy, the concierge of the hotel, was so sweet and had a few ideas as to where I should go…Linda and I had been to Vietnam some years before so I knew my way around relatively well.

        The lamps hanging in the shaft
of the hotel - Golden Sun
outside my room

 

The next morning, after a breakfast of mangled eggs, fruit and a coffee that could only be described as awful, I set off for Lake Hoan Kiem,(Lake of the Returned Sword), a stretch of water that is positioned in the middle of the city…Trees are planted all along the cobbled walkways with their weepy branches almost touching the waters, middle aged people exercising their limbs and groups of orange robed monks sitting cross-legged and chanting in hallowed tones… The  Lake has an air of classic romance about it and scenic walks where no one bothers you…all basically in the centre of the city.
Limbering up for that swim across the lake
It was a grey morning, quiet other than the hooters of the scooters and cars, driving in the main street. The atmosphere was peaceful all around. 


The peace within

I wanted to walk instead of taking cabs so that I could prove to myself that I could do it…For a number of years I have had some respiratory issues that eventually ended up in me taking a daily dose of medication that resulted in me being able to function normally again.
I came across a group of 20 Vietnamese 5 year old’s, dressed up and looking so cute…Their hair done in different styles and pig-tails and bob cuts and always smiling. The variant in the number of colours that my camera picked was quite wondrous…They posed for a picture that their teacher shot. I was fortunate enough to have them pose for me too…


Watch out for the third one from the right
\The only way to take a picture of these kids is for you to be really silly in some way, funny and being yourself. That was candy floss.

Walking further into the centre of the city...weather overcast...misty or polluted...maniac drivers keeping their right thumb constantly on the hooter...pedestrians...just walk and do not hesitate, do not stop, just walk and say ‘Hallelujah’ when you get to the other side.
I came across another smaller group also having photografix-sessions…I took several pictures here…Everybody was so charming and inquisitive.

As I gazed across the lake breathing in the sweet air my eyes rested on a building standing on a small islet, called Tortoise/Turtle Tower which was built around 250 years ago. There were very large turtles in the lake, some weighing as much as 200 Kilograms and spanning 1.9 metres in length…The last turtle spotted was in 2016 was dead when they found it…Some believe that there is still one of these turtles left like the Loch Ness Monster’s fable.


250 year old Turtle Tower on Lake Hoan Kiem

Perch of the Morning Sunlight


Love in the Shadows
                  
                                          
Sitting on a park bench

ALDOS, a huge building, overlooking the edge of Hoan Kiem Lake…Aldos is a clothing emporium that occupies a large part of this building…Within this large building was my favourite haunt, ‘The Legend Pub’…They serve the Legend beer amongst many other brews that comes in 500ml glasses, unlike the stingy 330 ml that the rest of Vietnam sell.
A Legend beer and a Springroll (Goi cuon) on the 5th floor overlooking the lake and the traffic…

'The Legend Beer Pub' - The Watch Tower of Lake Hoan Kiem
I can watch the traffic from up there…a huge circle with various lanes leading from it... A maze and a monkey puzzle below…people walking freely across the circle. Cars, bicycles and motorbikes competing with people walking freely across the circle and vendors holding up bundles of Various balloons on sticks…what a sight to behold

Down below and from here
  I decided to get lost this afternoon...walking into the bowels of the city made sure that I did...I am sure it was Hang Duoc or was it Hang Loc? Never mind, I finally stumbled onto the right street...went into a side street and experienced the most amazing art emblazoned on the panels of the wall of a low bridge...perfect settings for people to pose against...I stood in the shadows and watched the ladies dressed in their finery posing against paintings of the various artists...flowers and more flowers and miniature orange trees, heavily laden with the fruit.

two buckets
A cyclist exiting the mural

Two young ladies showing off

The picture that rests within us
                                   
The Great Escape
Hanoi is relatively clean, with very little dog excrement on the pavements...eating canine creatures used to be the norm but during recent times the delicacy thereof has lessened considerably....(I saw a stand selling roasted dog meat...looked absolutely awful and reminded me of the oven roasted brown skinned pigs...disgusting...I was expecting the head of a Vietnamese peasant on a skewer next).

Whilst strolling along the narrow streets, a few ladies approached me with an over friendly hello...walk on...mind you, would I have said anything if something happened? (that would have been my deep dark secret)
\

                                                                       The rich and the famous

I came across, quite by chance a fine Indian restaurant called ‘Namaste’, where I had been several years prior with Ed, my brother in-law and life-long friend, his Thai wife Tuk and Linda)…It had moved from its previous position to a quieter section of the city…It was on the 1st floor of this very ordinary building and the dining area was large.
I was ushered to a small table where I could observe what was happening. The owner, Mr Gopi, was a little older now but still had the same characteristics and charm from all those years ago.

He came across to my table and we chatted for a few minutes until he moved to the next table, welcoming the new guests.
I had as a starter a Gobi with lots of chilli and heavenly pickles followed by my favourite dish, Prawn Vindaloo, a three star hot dish…not meant for the faint hearted…What a delicious experience.
 
Gobi and a sliver of lime and sambals
Auf wiedersehen, Hanoi

This was to be my last evening in Hanoi and I was quite happy to walk back to my hotel feeling tired but contented.

The next morning I was to leave Hanoi, jump into a plane and fly to da Nang, where I would wait for a bus and head for Hoi An. Now sitting in the bus terminal of da Nang where I have been waiting and waiting.

I was asked by many of my friends back home to spin a few stories and take some pictures with my mobile on a daily basis. It is a difficult task especially when I am used to a Nikon slung around my neck and now I must also use the mobile…the scenes go by so quickly.
The usual boring scenes from your seat, observing the mensch in all his splendour...the bus would take me directly to the hotel...see you later in the city of Hoi-An...

 
End of Part I ...
 


 

 

 

 


Wednesday, May 8, 2019



P L A N E T   U D A I P U R
This is one of the strangest and most beautiful planets in India


It was the first early morning flight out of Mumbai...A small plane, touched down onto the       cement runway of Maharana Pretap airport, 22 kilometres east of Udaipur, a lonely and somewhat arid touch down.

The town is ancient and in many parts of this town it showed…but it is steeped in tradition with grand old buildings...The gateway to Rajasthan…
A population of around half a million people and an area covering 37 square kilometres...It is situated east of Gujarat and was formerly the capital of the Mewa Kingdom and established by Maharana Udai Singh II in 1559...The town  is scattered around several artificial lakes.


This was going to be an adventure to fill the pages of my diary...early stillness, slightly chilly and dry air...very similar to that of an early autumn morning in Oudtshoorn. We were shivering whilst descending the metal transportable stairs of the plane…but excited and waiting with anticipation for what we were to experience…it was all so strange and reeked of déjà vu.


The airport buildings, akin to a small town, were of basic 50's style ...straight  rail type lined architecture, shiny and polished tiled floors, steel beams and sparse Knick knack plastic and metal seats...no formalities, just a few security personnel standing at strategic corners with an air of non-urgency etched on their faces…

                                                      

                                                                               Maharana Pretap Airport - Udaipur


Ahead of us was the revolving baggage carousel, with a few belongings already doing the rounds…We were in luck as our bags were in sight…There were many incidences during our years of travel when our luggage never seemed to appear leaving us with visions of sleeping in our undergear at the hotel we had booked.

We loaded all the luggage onto the good ole Avis trolley and walked out of the airport hall where a young Indian gentleman brandishing a wild moustache and holding a white placard bearing the ROHLOFF name…He led us to a slightly clapped out old Tata...that has seen many miles, near miss adventures, dents and all.

The ride was estimated to take around an hour, through countryside fields, tiny villages and quaint rustic looking houses dotted all over the hills.
The sun was barely out of bed and many of the shadows were already evaporating…Outside fires were burning for that morning cup of chai and some breakfast.

Just when you think that Udaipur was over the hill, another village greeted you. There was nothing posh about the area…But then why should it be? However the aroma of  plants and air, fresh as a country morning, enveloped you. Everywhere you looked there was an abundance of trees, bushes and semi tropical plants. Indian folk going about their chores…washing and cooking and sweeping…mainly colour-sareed woman of all ages…Kids were already out of bed and playing with their young mongrel curs, yapping with curly tails constantly wagging.

We drove on through the western part of the town where there were many buses of various adornments and signs and colours…Each bus, loaded with people and their entire belongings tied to the top…they were preparing to leave town, northwards to another place of  hope.

We crossed a semi arched bridge, and over Lake Pichola…direction, the hotel that we had booked. 

The hotel that we were to stay at for 4 nights was built on the edge of a shimmering lake, peering into the town…all this from our balcony... The concierge, a young man, welcomed us to his hotel and asked us to fill in all the necessary forms, peeked at our passports and gave us the key to our “honeymoon” room on the second floor. We found throughout our journeys over India ,that the concierges at all hotels were always polite, spoke damn good English and were always helpful with making a deal, so that both parties came away feeling good.

We were ushered up the ancient stone stairs, two flights of them, and shown to our room...The room with half a view...It was hot and sticky and had a cheap perfumed dampness to it…this was not the room that we had expected...I went down to the concierge and asked whether they could place us into another room with a view and not so damp.

We were offered another room (Room 110), this time only one floor up...magnificent...views and all. The concierge offered this room at no extra cost  (free upgrade)...The crazy bell hop with the funny hair schlepped our suitcases up the stairs...no lifts in the  building...


The Honeymoon suite – with a view...Lake Pichola Hotel

We stood on the tiny and tidy balcony furnished with two chairs and a small gabled legged table and stared into the  atmosphere that was Udaipur...We were situated on the Southern banks of
Lake Pichola, a large lake, glinting in the 10 o’clock morning sun...frisky middle aged men bathing in the lake amongst laundry women folk thrashing their sheets on the stones with rhythmic precision...They were dressed in their finery, laughing and chatting  amongst themselves...The men with a minimalistic approach to their attire seemed happy and a little playful.
The full might of the sun had not quite reached the entire perimeter of the lake...There were still blotches of shadows dancing on the waters…especially near the overhanging trees.
                        


                                                                      Early morning ladies thrashing their laundry

                                                       
                                                           The early morning braves
                                                                                 

                                                                                        Men and kids bathing 


                                                                                        Our Honeymoon suite
                                                    
To the left of our balcony were two arch shaped bridges...One was strictly for the folk and the animals, the other for four wheeled vehicles and buzz bikes...There was a constant criss-crossing of humans and machine traffic across these two bridges...It was time to put on my sandals, grab my rucksack that contained all my riches (wallet, credit card, cash passport, Identity Document, passport and cash (Rupees)),and walk over the bridge and descend into the ancient town of Udaipur.

The lake was filthy and littered with plastic bags, take out Styrofoam food containers and bits of multi-coloured paper...even segments of food that would eventually disappear snatched up by an assortment of gladiator birds. (note – would birds eat these?)


Passage to the other side made for humans and animals
Udaipur, the jewel in the crown of Rajasthan borne during the era of around 1559 AD…a city that shimmers at night, viewed whilst eating at a Havel reached by climbing a steep 50 to 60 stepped stairway. Sitting there, a-gasp at the twinkling lights, lit up hotels which looked like they were almost floating on Lake Pichola.

The lake dried up 3 years ago and this made getting to certain places almost impossible.
During that last year, the rains came and the lake was born again….boats and fish and all…          
Whilst spending some time in Mumbai, the crowded and dirty metropolis inhabited by 21 million living beings…, I noticed how much shit was on the pavements that was really no more than what could be seen when walking  on the side streets of Fulham during the heart of icy winter. The only difference really was that India had an unsophisticated feel to it…The excrement stank, whilst the frozen smell of defecation in Fulham smelled…There were so many comparisons to be made between the two persuasions…However Udaipur was different…Udaipur fitted the profile of creating perfect pictures perfectly...We walked the narrow alleyways, seeing old men enjoying the ever bursting warm sun, trading folk rolling up their shutter doors, the odd buffalo and goat foraging for food and an old woman staring, deep in thought, out of a crumbling second storey apartment building...'oh to be a little younger now, so that I can spend life differently and walk tall.’


Woman day dreaming in the window

Traders in India open their shutters at around 10 or 11 in the morning...taking it easy...and having coffee and some things to eat with their friends…As I walked past a gathering of clans, young gentlemen sitting on the stairs, smoking and enjoying the start to this day, I turned my head towards them, waved and smiled…they waved and smiled back…what a wonderful feeling that was.

We walked past narrow alleyways with scooters and bicycles hidden in the early morning shadows.   Much of the activity was still to come. I took many almost intrusive pictures of strange objects in semi darkened alleyways, washing lines adorned with many colours and all sorts of gear hanging in the morning breeze and sunrise ladies cleaning the courtyards with their wispy straw brooms... it was the perfect start to an adventurous day that lay ahead.


                             
Alleyway

We walked along a narrow side path, with countless one speed bicycles of a bygone era., whizzing past…loaded with groceries for sale and children off to school…

I saw no stress, I saw no distress…We walked over the pedestrian bridge, roadside animal faeces splattered all over...They had as much right as did we, to amble over cobbled stones of old...We stopped in the centre of the curved bridge and looked over yonder where we saw our hotel to our right...and the narrow motor bridge afore it, with Tuk-Tuks, cars and loaded lorries and vans and the ever popular Tata...criss crossing.

We continued our walk, camera in hand, clicking as we walked…there was so much to record, so much to take home.

The end of the bridge...turn right into the narrow cobbled streets now faced with a plethora of choices. We walked alongside the banks of the lake  and looking across the waters, seeing our Hotel with the various balconies and the folks enjoying the early rising sun…Women hanging out their colourful clothing.

Wednesday is washing day and school's out
The narrow road led to the centre of the town, hugging the waters of one of the oldest freshwater lakes named after a village in the neighbourhood called Picholi (circa 1362 AD).

Then came the shops and the cafes and the places of historical importance...On the corner of one of the very busy streets a  stationery shop almost encroached onto the pavement, selling next year's calendars, Indian pictures, leather bound and etched diaries, handmade paper books...I just had to buy one of those to feed my penchant for writing… one for the equivalent of a few rupees. This was the start to the diaries of Rajasthan...This leather bound book became the scantily and minimalistically clad stories of the 31 days that we spent rambling, filled with  curiously sated spices of India.



There was the German  bakery where a few cows were cruising, the multi coloured cloth shops with scarves and table cloths and pashminas and wall hangings and hand bags and things to take back home. Upstairs in the building were various studios exhibiting local works of art...Silk screens, Pastels, oils, etchings and an array of carvings and jewellery...There were even tasteful posters of the surrealistic  paintings of Salvador Dali and Max Ernst…



                                                                                           Vegetarian Bakery

We came to a square...to the right a series of steps that led to a place of worship...many people walking up and down like an escalator...moving colour...many many women...

Linda and I decided to go to a refreshment centre...(upstairs) where we could watch the ladies trudging up and down those 39 steps to the Gods...another ice-cold Kingfisher blue, some sambals and crispy poppadum’s...funny fiercely faced monkeys jumping from roof to roof...always lurking in the background…Some grooming each other, interested in the fleas and kin...young ones playing and frolicking on the red clay tiles of the slanted roof...obviously not frightened of heights.



          39 steps

It was time to climb those 39 steps. The ascendancy to heaven revealed a different world...forlorn looking women crunched into tiny alcoves...almost as if they were imprisoned in tiny cages…candlelit lighting, representing different religions and castes...
From the steps we walked into a very spaciously and decorated religious room filled with the curious and the believers...chanting to the effigy in front of them. Dark red carpets, Incense, wisps of sweet smelling vapour, accompanied by tabla and  sitar…It was haunting and I felt my heart overtaking my mind.
                                                      


Hole in the wall businessman


Always to the gracious
                                                                                                                                     
                   
The chanting went on and on and we were caught in the frenzy and the cyclical wave...I looked around me and stared at an old woman whose eyes were shining with delirium…How could you not get enveloped in this almost hypnotic hysteria...The entire room was surrounded by coloured glass windows, late morning shadows grinning through...how simple everything looked, how easy and relaxed it all felt...my thoughts of the office back home was far away...I had no regrets… 


The claustrophobic trade
We descended those 39 steps, silently peering down at the  colourful women coming up...
We continued our walk through the main street...thronging with people, traders of scarves and table cloths and an assortment of ' I have lots more to show you’…After the  bargaining and haggling over a scarf, I pulled out a few Rupees from my wallet and paid the man, feeling victorious, thinking of the bargain I had just made...(it shredded to bits within days)

Another architectural gemstone in this magnificent town was the ancient 16th century City Palace that overlooks Lake Pichola...a structured 11 Palace complex with splendid gardens and courtyards laid in peacock mosaics and glazed tiled floors... the coloured glass windows glinted in the sun. The red, yellow and blue turbaned gentlemen in smartly attired uniforms either sitting or standing somewhere strategically, giving us foreigners a happy shoot for our album...sometimes asking for a few Rupees...but they were splendid and almost looked like  a scene from “The Last Train to India”... The digital SLR camera has turned out to be an absolutely wonderful 21st century invention...”shoot as many as you like and throw away the ones that look out of focus or not quite right.

It was a perfect day and the Palace open aired restaurant was gaily decked with an assortment of accoutrements...Sitting there, seeing the giant starlings hopping underneath the tables, looking for morsels of food...any food...  
 We walked and we walked and we walked...till we came to the waterfront...We purchased tickets at the wired cage...We were off to board a boat throbbing to the place they called Jag Mandir Island, home of the majestic 3 storeyed majestic Palace of Jag Mandir built around the  17th century...made of marble and yellow sandstone, splendid gables and turrets.

The impressive entrance to this Island, guarded by 3 colourful and sculptured elephants, lapped by the sweet waters.


The guards of Jag Mandir
                       

Raga in the afternoon


Hubbly Bubbles for sale
                                                                                    
During 1983 a James Bond Movie called  “Octopussy”  was made on this island starring Roger Moore, the hero of the film.
Also on this island is a 3 storeyed palace that was built in the 17th century. Made entirely of marble and yellow sandstone and guarded by 3 sculptured elephants..

Inside the wide and expansive lavish slated slabs were two musicians playing an afternoon raga using a myriad of instruments: Tabla, porcelain chimes, squashbox, santoor and sitars...(a heap of coins and notes lay near them in appreciation of their skills)...It was all so dreamlike and at one stage a surrealistic déjà vu enveloped me casting my previous life onto a plateau of fields and trees...Unfortunately after a few minutes the déjà vu scene had evaporated into thin air...I was standing on the edge of the stone wall facing the fading rose sunset.

Black birds sitting atop bulbous sculptures, red jacketed smiling Indian gentlemen with generous upturned moustaches, waiting for their custom, selling a variety of smoking paraphernalia and cloth and scarves and takeaway tourist gifts...and tourists a plenty milling around taking multiple self portraits with fingers pointing to the distant hazy shoreline...Dusk was settling in and with it came a chilly breeze...


Pigeon on a lamp
Portrait of a sartorially splendid Indian couple standing underneath an alcove...In the misty  distance shone the landline and drifting vessels.

The glass of frosty beer that I was holding felt reassuring…and I was a little 'beschwipsed'...We sauntered around taking more pictures of cooks and birds and woman dressed in their Indian schmuck and draping flowing sarees.

The atmosphere mixed with alcoholic euphoria almost brought tears to my eyes… (silly man)
The bell clanged in the background, announcing that it was time to get aboard and slowly wend our way back to the harbour on the mainland...The sun was slowly sinking, colouring the sky with a rose palette...a slight breeze drifted across the bay...The spray from the waters brought chills to my body...the buildings on the left and the right of the boat looked like a film set from the Planet to Utopia...Some people were hanging out of the seventh floor of the Raj Utopia...some were waving, some were just staring into the last rays of the sun...Tomorrow we welcome...


We sail at dusk
                                                                                                                               
The boat gently bumped against the used motor tyres car tied to the wall of the harbour wall...the junior boatswain tied the ropes and set the gangplank for the passengers to disembark...I grabbed my rucksack and gingerly walked across the planks until land made me feel at ease once again.

A walk to the Hotel was around three kilometres.

I saw two chairs overlooking the lake...the lake, the dying light of the sun and the shadows of the towers inking the waters...


                                                         I could hear the soft sounds of “Shine on you crazy diamond”

On route we decided to have a grand dinner atop one of those high restaurants overlooking the shimmering lake and almost peering into our hotel. The sky with its myriad of stars and galaxies shone down onto the waters...Thunder flashes and a loud crackling of light blitzed across the black sky...A fireworks display was in motion...What more could we want with the most expensive seats in the house....staccato explosions  into circles of bright colours.   


Hotel Lake Pichola - from the Restaurant
                                               
Finally our eyes fell onto the menu and two Kingfishers later we read what was on offer.

Some of the items on the never ending list were

·       Hot and Sour Soup
·       Paneer Chilly
·       Paneer – Tikka Dry
·       Paneer – Taka Tak
·       Malai Tikka
·       Hara Bhara Kabab
·       Veg Pulao
·       Punjabi Thali
·       Manchurian Gobi and Vindaloo in many voltages.
·      And rice and Naan and Parathas and sambals and the price that you could end up believing you were on another planet.

Desserts

·       I am not much of a dessert eater, so I suppose the best for me would always be the Lassi which is a sweet and salty mango.

I  had the usual Prawn Vindaloo (as hot as hell) and a Manchurian Gobi (spiced up cauliflower and mushrooms)...Linda had her Kadai Paneer and Basmati rice...

The sky, oh the sky....All along the cluster of small hotels, restaurants, the lake shimmered with its kaleidoscope of colours. Further inwards the waters turned pitch black, hiding all the murky secret depths of the garbage...After a further bottle of that Kingfisher Blue and having teased our palette with all that wondrous cuisine, we knew that we had to still wind our way back to the Pichola Hotel, on the other side of the lake...The streets were narrow and sparsely lit, always looking down to narrowly miss some human or animal debris. We felt safe and knew that we would not be accosted. The traffic had abated somewhat.

Crossing the bridge of human kindness...standing on the balcony overlooking the lake, where we had just had that wonderful meal, your reflections and in a sense, a feeling of déjà vu,  times of bygone years, where standing here was but a mere  dream. Standing on Indian soil for the first time and realising all my conversations with people back home...friends from work and family...

In the arms of Morpheus with just a gentle lapping of the waters outside...Revisiting the steps of palace rooms, decorated with the finest of silk curtains, loud and almost garish hues in typical Indian fashion and custom...The kids passionately playing cricket in the narrow alleys, street food better than home cooked, whiffs of an assortment of spices wafting through the streets...Smartly uniformed and thickly mustachioed Indian guards, standing at the entrances of  museums and palaces...Black birds hopping between tables and picking up the crumbs blown off from the white linen table cloths...scarves and shawls and pashminas hanging on rails, in the afternoon breeze...traders rolling down their metal shuttered doors and going home to their family...Tomorrow is yet another day...The brown swirling waters, the flat bottomed craft bobbing up and down, the fresh spray and the white birds swooping behind the wake of the waters...This was no place for nightmares as I drifted into room 21 of the Chamber of Intrigue and Meditation.

Sleeping on those horrible beds gave me no trouble...

Bright and cheery and early the next morning, whilst standing half naked on the balcony of the hotel, I looked over yonder to the other side of the lake, the women of the waters standing in the waters...cold waters, washing the clothes. The sun was still hiding and the long shadows of the night had started to dissolve...older men and their grandsons bracing the lake...splashing and shouting.

We got ready for the day, tidied up the room, looked a last time in the long bedroom mirror and closed the door and headed to the Breakfast room downstairs. The sun had already by now made its’ appearance and the new day had just been born...We had a light Indian fare, hot and soup and paratha aloo, sweet chai, small cakes and buns.


Breakfast room with a view
                                                                   
We wanted to explore Udaipur which was enveloped by the Aravali mountains, adjoined to the Thar Desert...We were 800 kilometres from Mumbai.
We were in luck as Udaipur has an annual festival just on the outskirts of the town. We engaged the services of a Muslim driver, well acquainted with the history of the region...He had to be an Ismail and he had to be the driver of a Dinky Toyed Tata.

To get to the festival Ismail drove up a narrow mountain pass where everyone had a licence to kill...Bad roads and hairy drivers taking chances around blind bends...On many of the bends around this Mountain pass I closed my eyes and tried to drift into Nirvana.

Below us lay the misty town of Udaipur.
Travelling through the pass, Ismail told us about the festival that was financed by the authorities and the people...
The camels and the elephants waited on the lush green lawns. The home grown folk standing in the doorways of their stark white and quaint stone houses.
Laid out in front of their houses was an assortment of carpets, camel bags blankets scarves and various adornments...so colourful and tempting you to bargain and buy.


Traders of Colour

The place was packed, so parking was a little difficult but we managed to get a spot within a kilometre or so from the entrance of the festival. We trundled up to the entrance, paid a fee (There was always a fee to be paid to the entrances of Museums, parks, festivals, caves and the like) We walked down a dusty gravel path leading to many tented stalls with traders bearing an assortment of branded clothing, sweets and copper ware, pottery, books and pens and schmuck (cheap jewellery), sandals and next year’s calendars...anything of colour... tourists delight.


Traders of the festival

Lazy stroll to the dancers
                                                       
                                                                     



Pottery bells and weird objects
                                                                     
We continued, occasionally  stopping at a stall, looking for presents and house ornaments. At the end of the long gravel road, we veered to the left and entered into a world of fantasy...multi -coloured woven saddle bags slung over waiting camels, Japanese ladies in their Eastern finery, sweet kids selling an assortment of artificial candy floss, bubble drinks, long laid out lawns, people sitting on striped painted steps and old Indian Gentlemen...talking to each other.

The dream continued...many many beautiful nubile Indian women sitting around an open circular gravelled arena, Long white socked young Indian men standing around and waiting for their cue to enter the arena. Squashbox players, tabla and an assortment of light instruments looking nervously around for the nod from the ringmaster to begin.


Beauty, Beauty,Beauty...
                                            

I stood there affixed and staring at the scene unfolding...I looked at the young girls, shyly whispering into each other’s ears...

The show was about to start...I milled and weaved between the players and the dancers, taking pictures of the unfolding scene. I smiled at them and waved...they smiled and waved back...This was so heart-warming and seemed so worthwhile.

The giggling and a- laughing  sweet dreams, covered in their Indian jewellery, silver,  golden bangles and rings, mirrored cloths and swishing sarees...glistening  began their rhythmic swaying steps, hips circulating and the music, pulsating...Their misty veils covering their deep secrets and the mystic smiles while they danced away...Any man’s heart would  flutter away into the distance.


A nose flute player of note
  

Dancers
The assortment of musicians were swaying in time with their music, playing modern Indian folk songs...every facet, every scene interlocked with each other.

It was deliberately slow in the beginning, teasing the audience and in time with the tempo set by the three squatted musicians...Then the pace accelerated to a canter, laughter in abundance as they clearly enjoyed the rhythmic pulse...Suddenly it stopped with curtsies and arms flailing gently.

It was oh so short, and oh so romantic...but it had to end...

Then out of nowhere came the male dancers, slim and athletic ,their white Tom Jones mutton leggings, multicoloured  turbans and cotton shirts. They could have come from an Indian football team, adorned in Bizarre team gear...

There was military styled precision to their movements. Six of these dancers formed a circle, all in keeping with the rhythm out the tabla players...round and round they danced in a clockwise direction...then in an anti-clockwise direction...swirling.
Whilst all these movements was in continuance, a further formation of six dancers formed a circle above the six ever swirling round and round...a third tier was finally formed, (like a wedding cake), ever going round and round to the hypnotic pace set by the musicians...


                                                                                          Circular dancers

They danced as if they were all in a trance...Suddenly the women appeared and joined the men in the finale...a mixture of toing and froing and the swirl of the material...all very traditional...

Male and female scholars, sometimes in groups of seven or eight walked around the lawns and steps of this 5 square kilometre fair...Always light hearted and inquisitive...Many of them approached us to engage in conversation and picture taking...The questions and the answers and the expressions...I could never understand why there was this mirth and good nature...I was never afraid of turning my back on a scene because I knew that India was not such a place like back home where one has to cultivate four eyes to protect oneself.

We wearily walked back to our car...it was already quite dark and a train of painted elephants were on their way home...I walked up to one of the bigger elephants and touched his trunk...it was a thrilling and strange feeling, brushing over his bristled trunk...the mahout (trainer) looking on and smiled


Going home
The sun in the west fading and sinking under streaked rose tinted clouds...”more is nog ‘n dag”

We had bought some tickets to see a traditional Dance and Light show that was to be held in one of the oldest buildings in Udaipur...We walked through the entrance, showed our ticket to the keeper and walked into this strange and huge chamber...a circular formation of the seating arrangements, a few aisles, dance floor and a musician’s den...
The place was packed, with lots of tourists and locals alike.

The compere, brandishing a mobile phone introduced the audience to the Dancers, who were first perform their rituals...It appeared that the ladies were in their late thirties and early forties...dressed in the real Indian tradition...fine silk and cotton sarees, slightly luminous and faces from an era, long long ago...The tempo of the music was frenetic, the music pitch was haunting and the dancers hypnotically interlaced with each other, veiled smiles and energetic movements...there was an air of mystic romance to their themes...magic powder puff...
More dancers were introduced, while some fell away, always with fresh movements and happy smiles.







While these porcelain like females were entertaining the enthusiastic crowds, an Indian traditional band consisting of three players (Harmonium, tabla and sarod) sat cross legged in the background, playing their traditional tunes...Their music always resonated within you...

A serious lady, a short lady came onto the arena, dancing slowly and balancing bulbous objects on her head...after each completed motion, she appeared with another bulbous object, atop the last one, until eight of these were stacked on her head...while dancing...I found this act akin to a circus trick and therefore quite tiresome...


It was time to trudge off home to the Pichola Hotel, for the last evening in Udaipur. On our way back we crossed over the bridge of motors only and sat down to a meal , underneath the bridge...The food turned out rather bland, no bite and very little courageous Indian fare...What a disappointment to end the day at Udaipur, the small and beautiful planet in India.

Usually when one leaves the hotel, there is always the packing and the making sure that nothing is left behind...as tomorrow we will be travelling in Ismail’s Tata to Jodhpur, through the mountain pass on the way to Jodhpur and Ranakpur, the town with white marbled Jain architectural buildings...
There was great sadness within me...would I ever see Udaipur again?


Namaste
Footnote:-

2012 was the start to a series of visits to India, covering the Rajasthan route from Mumbai to Accra and southwards to Khajuraho, the land of Kama Sutra...Our second Sojourn was a journey from Delhi to Kerala, the most beautiful lakes in India...Our journey ended in Varanasi, the holy Ganga, the burial site of the Indian folk...
The third and last visit led us to The Himalayas, Rishikesh, southern India, Orisha and Kolkata. Most of these journeys that we undertook were predominantly via a motor vehicle that allowed us much freedom and curiosity spots...All were documented in the various bound books that I purchased throughout the thousands of kilometres travelled.

Much of India is not for the faint-hearted...but for the curious and adventurous traveller.

Michael.
May 2019